Haute-Vienne Miscellany

Château de Chalusset

Until recently hidden in the woods South of Limoges (it took me 3 tries to find it), Chalusset is the ruin of a vast triple fortress. Built in the 12th century and constantly enlarged until the 15th (though the site itself has been occupied since the early Iron Age), Chalusset was a Huguenot stronghold in the Wars of Religion, and was finally stormed and dismantled in 1593.

Since my visit, Chalusset has been opened up, signposted, the ruins consolidated and the surrounding area designated a Nature Park.

      

  

  

  

 

Blond and Les Monts de Blond

These hills, rising to about 1600 feet, are the Western outpost of the Massif Central.
Mostly covered in dense forest, they also have many prehistoric remains – dolmens, menhirs –
and granite outcrops, often weathered into curious shapes, like the Rocher branlant, which has
been rocking gently throughout human history.

  

  

  

Pierre-Buffière

A medieval village with a church on the hilltop and a castle in the valley,
which is now crossed by a spectacular motorway viaduct.

 

Lac Saint-Pardoux

A calm lake with many bays and branches, well supplied with leisure facilities including three artificial
beaches, sailing and motor-boating areas, sports grounds and pathways.

  

  

 

Château de Montbrun

Built in 1179 and regularly swapped between French and English, this perfect medieval castle achieved
its final, classic shape – surrounding moat, round towers at the four corners and the high central tower
common in forested areas – between 1433 and 1438. It suffered a disastrous fire in 1562 after an
attempt to capture it from the Protestants then in occupation, and was pillaged and mostly destroyed
during the Revolution. restored in 1871, it was burnt down again in 1917. restoration was completed
in 1966, and it is now an Hotel.

  

 

Les Monts d'Ambazac

A range of forested hills rising to over 2000 feet,
the North-western buttress of the Massif Central.

Rochebrune

A very plain, unornamented castle with the classic four round towers and moat, and a courtyard
open on one side, Rochebrune lacks a central keep. It was the property of a Napoleonic general
whose family still live in the castle and exhibits many souvenirs of the First Empire.

  

 

  

 

Rochechouart

The castle here (now the Town Hall) dates from the 11th-13th centuries, with renaissance embellishments.
The stone of which it was built is part of the débris left by a colossal meteorite – about a mile in diameter –
which struck the area about 200 million years ago.

  

Châteauponsac

  

Château-Chervix

   

Magnac-Laval

Interesting town with an annual pilgrimage and 50km. procession
in honour of Saint Maximin

  

Near Magnac-Laval, some years ago, I found this chéteau for sale. The agent suggested the owner
might take, say, one franc (then 10p) for it. But it needed at least a million pounds spending on it,
so I didn't bother. Probably by now it has been bought by an antique reclamation dealer and demolished.

  

Coussac-Bonneval

One of the best example of a Lanterne des Morts, lit in the days between a death and a funeral,
as a memorial to the deceased and a lighthouse for travellers.

Le Dorat

A church with contrasts; simple inside, insanely complicated outside,
even to the inclusion at the East end of part of the town wall,
complete with watch-tower.

    

  

Saint-Junien