The whole of Southern Normandy is a series of unexplored delights, from the Gorges of the Vire to the borders of the Dunois near Châteaudun. It is rolling country, like the centre but greener. You can drive all day along little winding empty roads, finding new delights round every corner, under a wide, lark-encrusted sky. In June the fields are full of poppies; in August many are filled with the surprise of sunflowers, or the soft, lazy, long-eyelashed Norman cows which wear bells round their necks because, so they say, their horns don’t work.